Wont be able to make it to the GM day.. Too much work. But I'm sure that you will put some pics up though!
Wont be able to make it to the GM day.. Too much work. But I'm sure that you will put some pics up though!
Whats new Mook
Well tonight I gots the manifold bolted up, which was a bit sketchy at times.
Does anyone know what size bolts I would need to bolt the carburetor to the manifold? It's a elderbrock performer. And also what bolts for the thermostat? All of which are completely non existant.
More questions
what way round for the carburetor?
And should I run with a spacer?
Why wouldn't you run with a blank thermostat housing?
Looking good, carby goes the other way round.
Cheers Mark
I suppose you need the the ports on the thermostat housing for the heater hoses. Looking good Mook!
On the standard manifold/carby they used two studs and two bolts.Mainly cause you can't fit bolts on the carby. Check that bolts will work and that you don't need studs and nuts for that carb.
Ok get it for the manifold bolts/studs. I'll check for clearance on the carb.
Can I run the heater pipes from the water pump and have a blank thermostat housing?
Or will it always be hot in the cab?
I couldn't see why you couldn't rig it like that. My HJ 308 (original manifold) has an outlet on the thermostat housing that only attaches back onto the manifold under the choke. My heater hoses (both) run from the water pump housing to the (A/C) heater box. I would suggest that the hotest water for the heater would be from the thermostat housing as the water exits the engine in that direction towards the radiator.Originally Posted by mook
Regards,
Dave
Nunc est bibendum...
do you need a tap if you were to run this set up?
I'm sure that once everything was up to running temp the heater box would run fine..?
I'm trying to set up the engine bay as a super clean wireless factory look, this is my justification for the slightly abnormal heater setup.
Can you get an electric heater core because that would make me even happier!
Heater tap = yes. All air that is drawn through the fan goes through the heater core whether or not the heater has been selected on or not. The heater tap position determins how much hot water is flowing through the heater core and therefore the temp of the air exiting the heater box. Same deal for aircon except it also has to pass through the evaporator.
An option that I have seen is a pair of 5/8 inch tubes that route the water against the block below the exhaust and enter the heater box upwards against the firewall via rubber heater hose. The heater tap was a cable operated type attached to the firewall rigged to operate in correct sense. A lot of stuffing around but the guy who owned it thought it was worth it.
You can buy just about everything else, so why wouldn't you be able to rig a 12V heater together? There'd have to be something out there you could adapt if you wanted to go that far. As long as you're careful with the amount of heat they can generate near your plastic heaterbox...
Regards,
Dave
Nunc est bibendum...
I suppose the water for the heater was taken from the thermostat housing so the motor could warm up quicker, rather than trying to heat the heater core as well. Probably makes no difference though really. You need a tap otherwise your heater core will always be hot and its going to heat your cab up as a result, summer and winter.
No idea on electric heater, might be available.
No doubt someone could fit extra outlets on your radiator (for heater hoses) somewhere and you could hide the heater hoses more easily then.
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