The local panel beater told me to get mine sandblasted and then etch prime it and work on the rust. He said that soda blasting wont get any old body filler out and to be careful that the sandblaster new what they were doing so as to not warp the panels. However I have only spoken to one bloke and I know about zilch when it comes to paint.
I have also inquired in regards to getting my HJ sandblasted or soda blasted, was told the same that sandblasting can warp panels and as we know with vans there are big panels that can be warped. The guy that does the soda blasting in the southern highlands which is south of Sydney apparently does a lot of work for the Mustang Club based I imagine around Sydney ?? anyway he also suggested to get the car etch primed pretty much straight away or you are risking/promoting more or further rust problems. I also got onto another guy who is starting a mobile sandblasting business a mobile booth apparently. My panelbeater suggested if I wanted to safe money just to get all the joins, gutters, seams, sills tailgates etc done and strip the larger panels myself ?? So the plan for me is to get it blasted/stripped and identify and the areas which required rust replacement then take it to the p/beaters for that side of things and hopefully by then will have decided about the paint side of things. Blocker do you plan to do your van in 2-pak??
I dont think you would want to leave it in etch primer too long as it is porous and will go rusty after a while.
most of my customers are going soda blasting for there cars these days..
if you do go sandblast mark out all the flat areas so he does not do them..example...centre of roof... side panels where windowless and bonnet and lower tailgate..lower gate may be ok coz its a smaller area but you dont wanna risk it...just paint strip the areas not blasted..
as for priming,most blasters will prime for you at extra cost..either etch or both..
if you do get them to leave it bare metal you really need to prime it straight away to 24 hours depending on the climatic conditions..longer if your in a desert.;)
etch isnt a sealer and neither is acrylic primer...if you were gunna leave it for years i would throw a thick coat of black or whiye acrylic over it...or any mismatch colour thats cheap..
also make sure you seal your repairs when you do them straight away.
DISCLAIMER...i am not a tradesman and i taught myself in conjunction with annoying people that were tradesman back in the 70s and 80s which was very much acrylic painting.so this is just advice on what i have learnt and done...
if you go into the hq sandman thread you will see a pic of my hq and its in high fill which is porous,that pic was taken in 2001 and it was handstripped and etched,primed and highfilled in 1997.. i was told and had been outside in a lean too facing the ocean which was about 2k sitting on top of a hill for about a year b4 i got it..
you can see surface rust bleeding thru in those pics.where the etch prime is but where it has been painted is still clean to this day..
blocker,go back to the guy with the sandman and ask him what he used to paint it with so he can wash it off...i am presuming he has just painted acrylic straight over the bare metal and he will use thinners to wash it off as it wont get a real good bite in the metal..
this is my most recent paint job and repairs done 2 years ago in acrylic and outdoors for my son...$300 vg v6 5 speed ute..put a vs front on...he drove it around for a couple of years and just sold it for $4500..
After speaking with local panel beaters soda blasting is the way to go many people have had their cars fucked by sandblasters that know what they are doing. t could cost you alot more if you have to replace panels
Originally Posted by abncraig
i get people all the time ringing and looking for bonnets and bootlids that the blasters have screwed..and wiring harnesses and wiper pivots and anything else that the customer leaves in the vehicle...make sure its stripped absolutely bare of everything including brackets that come off...:cry:
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