As Borat says: Very nice! 'igh fivee!"![]()
As Borat says: Very nice! 'igh fivee!"![]()
Now that engine bay looks showroom standard.
"Proud To Be An Old Fart".
Still better than they did at the GMH engine plant. Engines were roughly masked along the manifold-head interface, and along the front edge. Rocker covers, gaskets, exhaust manifolds etc were all painted rocket red. Red paint was always seen across the front and sides of the manifold.
I fitted new brake pipes the suggested way (front res to rear & rear res to front) and the only advantage I gained was the back brakes dont seem to be locking up anymore.
If the new master cylinder, which is arse about face to the old one, is off a later model then my question would be "is the pushrod between the booster and master cylinder the same length????"
I have come across this before where as little a 3mm makes a huge difference. Can anyone confirm one way or the other?
so you still have spongy brakes?..did you re bleed them back to front this time?
I would like to share some things worth consideration also......
If you have fitted a master cylinder off a different model, never mind the reservoirs and pipes being back to front, but also bear in mind that diameters may be different between models or break points in production also. Did you over haul your front calipers and replace the pistons? We went bonkers once with an XC ford until we discovered the new pistons were concaved, and the old ones were flat. subsequent lunch room raves over the years also had comparable things like that with holdens, just as suppliers like Repco were becoming involved with replacement brake parts. Another thing to t is the bleeding technique, where you have an assistant pump the pedal vigourously and then have them count 1! 2! and on three,snap open the bleeder before they stomp hard on the pedal. This can often dislodge air pockets in some systems. All other advice offered by other members has been good too, assuming you have adequate knowledge on brake systems fundamentals. as a matter of course, did you bleed the new master on the bench before installation? This too can cause hours of needless fun. A messy job, so do it well away from any vehicles. I don't mean to sound condesending, but sometimes the most simple things may be the cause. I hope this helps too.
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BTW are you anywhere near Sydney? I can give you the name of an absolute guru as far as things with brakes, clutches and heads go......
I know, I'm replying to my own question....but the scary part is that my suspicion was right....for a change.
After I got the air out of the l/h caliper it turned out it didn't make any significant difference.
Today, after sitting in my, now well worn, pondering chair last night killing off some excess brain cellswith my favorite brew
I made a 3mm spacer to go over the end of the push rod out of the booster. The result was instant...full, hard pedal.
It still needs a little tweak but I had to start somewhere.....I reckon a 2.5mm spacer will be on the money so I'll trim this one down in the morning.
Prior to this, after clamping off all 3 hoses and getting full pedal, all I had to do was remove either 1 of the front 2 caliper clamps and the pedal crept to the floor. I knew it couldn't be the calipers full of air anymore so I started looking at the master cylinder. I figured that the pedal was creeping because the seal hadn't gone past the little vent return hole and was bleeding internally....almost as much as I was after spending 2 weeks trying to find the problem. The pedal sunk to the floor as if I had a slightly open bleeder nipple...there was a bit of pressure there but it still went to the floor.
So theres yet another solution to a brake problem....although I guess it'll only ever come up when you make 1 van out of 3 then start using new and old parts. BTW, the only old part of the braking system is the booster and the pedal. Lesson learned.![]()
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