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Thread: Electronic distributor

  1. #11
    It's a rockin' adam perth's Avatar
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    a brand new Mallory HEI is $330 the last time i brought one.

    The WB ones are getting harder to find now, and you probably won't know if its off an auto or a manual if its out of a parts bin as they have different vaccume advance curves for auto + manual.

    WB dizzys need 12 V, your wiring in your red motored HZ will only deliver 9V in its current configuration
    "All correspondence must bear these numbers"

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blocker View Post
    I've just done that. As the previous guys have posted, get a dissy from a V8 Blue or Black motor, also buy a brand new V8 XD/XE Falcon rotor.
    Remove the dissy cap which will be the large one and remove the rotor, add new XD/XE rotor and you can place a standard points cap on it.

    It has been recommended to use a Xd/XE coil, but also have heard I can use a 12v oil filled coil (this I am yet to test).
    You can use the original GMH HEI coil but if you run the points dizzy cap you have to use a special coil lead as the HEI coil has a post rather than a socket. No major drama though, just use it if it comes with the dizzy (or find one on any blue 6cyl or EFI VK 6cyl). If you use the Ford XD/XE HEI coil though you can use the whole original points dizzy lead set which may be important to you if the car is close to original.

  3. #13
    It's a rockin' agr071's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam perth View Post
    WB dizzys need 12 V, your wiring in your red motored HZ will only deliver 9V in its current configuration
    Still use your 9v coil and original wiring BUT run an extra 12v supply to the module with a kill switch.
    It still looks like a factory set up but it won't start if the kill switch is used.
    BO6 = Rarer then a Sandman

  4. #14
    Learner Driver
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    I just bought a brand new electronic dissy from repco looks like the original type came with a new coil ready to go and it uses the standard holden type module i'm very happy withit .
    cheers

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by agr071 View Post
    Still use your 9v coil and original wiring BUT run an extra 12v supply to the module with a kill switch.
    It still looks like a factory set up but it won't start if the kill switch is used.
    That's too hard. Just use the HEI coil with the factory HQ-HZ wiring and bridge the start and run wires (yellow and pink from memory) at the ignition switch.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by agr071 View Post
    Still use your 9v coil and original wiring BUT run an extra 12v supply to the module with a kill switch.
    It still looks like a factory set up but it won't start if the kill switch is used.
    I did that kill switch idea on the coil wire on my blue wb. The thieves must have liked the idea as they left me the kill switch in the gutter to use again on my next ute (I had it all well hidden too) lol not.

  7. #17
    So can i drop a wb V8 electronic dizzy straight in, as i can get hold of one cheap, are there any electrical wiring adjustments, thanks sandmaners

  8. #18
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    As above, bridge the start and run wires at the ignition switch (switched side). I think they are pinkl and yellow wires. This will give you 12V to the coil at all times, rather than 12V at start and 9V when running.

    Make sure you use the WB HEI coil as well.

    If you keep the big cap it may foul on the brass T where the brake booster attaches to the manifold on a red motor. Best bet it to use the points cap as described above.

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