*rustproofing*what do u use?

[benvanman]

hey guys sorry if this has been covered before
im after some advice good or bad on what you use or have used on inside of panels to prevent rust.
i used to use fish oil but there is a fair few others around now,its ment to be deoderised but it still stinks.
so im at the point where the body of the van is all primed and i wana get somethin in there as there is welds everywhere bofore it starts rusting.

cheers
ben

[V6HQUTE]

i use kbs rust sealer, sticky stuff, i did my whole floor pan with it and inside the plenum/cowl, as far as i could reach, wear gloves tho, i had black stuff covering my hands for a few weeks, if your quick petrol gets it off, got it in my hair somehow too, had to cut it out lol, it ran out onto the cement on the floor, and trying to get it off it was ripping up part of the cement so it stayed , its the same/similar to POR15, ill do the insides of my doors and guards also,

--- Updated ---

i also did the inside of my tailgate on the frame and skin when i reskinned and reinforced it, another thing i use is rust convertor, cant remember the brand, its good for a year or so to protect bare metal,

[HK1837]

Rust converter (the phosphoric acid type that makes your hands go blue) is good to spray in behind rust repairs, let it dry off for a few days before spraying any aftermarket rustproofing spray. There are some really sticky brown ones that don't sting, but don't use them in the doors as they block the drain holes. Try and get rust converter into the hidden spots too like the front of the door frames between the window support and the hinge carrier (front of door) as they always rust in here as they were bare metal. I also like to drill a small hole (like 3-4mm) on the sides of the cowl where the doors close so you can get some rust converter and then fishoil into the double skinned area of the cowl (bits on the left and right extremities in front of the windscreen). Fishoil sprayed through one of those little plastic tubes that push into the spray can nozzle works good. Once it has all dried you can put a dob of fibreglass (non permeable) filler into the holes before paint. Go and look at a rusty car in a wrecking yard and see where to drill the holes.

[Taily]

The better rustproofing systems I found using the stuff almost daily back in the mid 80's were runny and sticky as PG13ery so that they could get into almost anywhere - and stay there. The system we used where I worked (can't think of the name of it but came in two or three black tins - thinking about it, it may have been Endrust but thinbk there were two ro three ones in use back then) involved a darker spray that was applied under the car and a light fawn coloured one that did the doors and other hard to reach places.

A one inch piece of a Maccas straw (or any other stiff straw that will hold its shape reasonably well) inserted before application into the drain holes of the doors and tailgate etc will stop the holes clogging while the material begins to solidify after the few hours/next few days. If you leave about 5-10mm of straw protruding from the bottom of the holes you can pull them out later using either fingers or pliers. Should you find you end-up with a blocked drain hole it is quite simple just to work a bit of wire or even a small flat blade screwdriver up into the holes to clear them.

Regards,

Dave.

[Vombil]

I used one that came highly recommended by a BHP worker. Reckons they do chassis etc and it's pure gold. Must of done something wrong in the application coz after I etched it I had surface rust coming through a day later!!!

Stick as and really claggy. I like the thin ones like rainex rust buster. Lock it away with a few coats of 2k primer. Sticks and seals like nuttin else

[buck]

i have just rust proofed my wb with dulux fishoil, every single panel i could get to, Yes it does stink, but my old man sprayed it on his car in 1981 as we lived on shaving point in metung, salt water on both sides of the house with in 20 feet, the car still does not have a speck of rust anywhere now and it still on the original coat sprayed inside all the panels. over 30 years later!

[benvanman]

thanx for all the info and ideas guys
i ended up going with the good old stinking fish oil and then a coat of tectyl 506 wax type stuff over the top, i also drilled a heap of holes every where and used rubber gromets to fill the holes. they dont look to bad at least i can rest knowing its all protected inside everywhere.and yes those little tube thingy off a wd40 can worked a treat.
now my shed absolutely reaks like shitte ,i might have to stay out of there for a few days
all for a good cause tho
cheers
ben

[Grunt]

Was wondering if anyone has used Rust Bullet? the writeups seem pretty good. This is what they say about it

Awarded an Unprecedented Two United States Patents
Extensive Scientific Testing Against the Market Leaders Confirms Rust Bullet is Unsurpassed in the Control of Rust and Corrosion
ECO Friendly – Contains No Lead, No Zinc, No Chromates, No Acids, and No Heavy Metals
VOC Compliant
Applies Directly Over Rusted and Clean Surfaces Protects Concrete, Wood, Fiberglass, and Many Other Substrates
Little or No Surface Preparation Required
Easy to Apply and Maintain
Apply by Brush, Roller, or Spray Equipment
Superior Adhesion
Scratch, Chip, and Chemical Resistant
UV Resistant – No Topcoat Necessary
Strong Weather Resistance in All Climates and Below Sea Water
Tested and Proven to Effectively Encapsulate Mold
Performed Better than Most Fire Retardant Coatings in the ASTM E84-04 Test for Surface Burning Characteristics of Building Materials
Potted Water and Volatile Organics Tests Confirm Rust Bullet Coating Meets the United States’ Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) Primary and Secondary Drinking Water Standards
Awarded a Schedule Contract with the United States General Services Administration (GSA), One of the World’s Largest Suppliers of Quality Products to U.S. Federal Government Buyers.


I would hate to see the signs of rust agai a few years down the track or has anyone got a better product?

[wbute]

I use a shed. The only way of rust proofing a HQ-WB Holden.

[thatotherguy]

there is no easy way to prevent rust,the metal needs to be clean and rust free and yes it is time consuming and boring .I use a very coarse wet and dry (used dry) and rainex rustbuster and then fishoil and then a good primer and a top coat .I have a HT kingswood that i have owned for 34 years and i treated inside the doors and boot and i havent touched it in about 30 years and it was left outside and used as a daily driver until about 5 years ago and still all good