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  1. #1
    Learner Driver
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    Oct 2012
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    LS1 engine conversion

    Has anyone done a ls1 engine conversion? Is it possible and if so how hard? Im looking at this option in a h series panno...

  2. #2
    Sandman Guru
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    Do you mean HD-HG? Or are you meaning the W sized panel vans ie HQ-WB?

    Castle Auto Electrics is worth looking at for info. Here are some kits:

    Here is HK-HG: http://www.castleauto.com.au/hs_dbase/efihkgen3.php

    HD, HR and HQ-WB: http://www.castleauto.com.au/hs_dbase/efigen3.php

    Obviously you don't need all the stuff on these pages, but it gives you an idea of how much it'll cost to "plug and play", ie basically buy the bits and bolt it all in without doing much yourself.

    If it was me, and it was a W sized (HQ-WB) van i'd be using a VY LS1 and 4L65E out of a 1-tonner or Crewman (or VZ but this requires a bit more mucking around with the drive by wire throttle). This way you can keep all your factory tunnel and use a TH400 T-bar and make it all appear stock. As you can see on the lists they sell bracket kits to mount a Sanden A/C compressor up high on the LHS if you wish to run factory air. They also have weld rings for your standard tank to fit a VT fuel pump, but i'd be trying to fit a VN-VS fuel tank with swirl pot up high where the standard tank fits. Needs a filler neck mod, but I have a diagram here that will convert the sender signal into the right signal to drive a late HQ-WB fuel guage correctly.

  3. #3
    It's a rockin' Robbo's Avatar
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    A very popular engine swap with most kit's available on e bay. A friend of mine is about to do an HQ wagon, the LS1 is so much better than a 308.
    "Proud To Be An Old Fart".

  4. #4
    Learner Driver
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    Thankyou HK1837 so much, youve helped me alot on here. Yes itll be the hq to wb models and yeah I also want to have factory air. @ robbo yeah id agree. I have a stock 308 in my wb ute but after taking a ride in a mates commodore with ls1, well I cant wait to have one in my panno!

  5. #5
    Sandman Guru
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    You can make an EFI 304 go pretty hard too by stroking it to 350 or 377ci, and sometimes this is easier and cheaper if you already have a decent driveline like a TH400 and 9", brand new heavy duty radiator etc. But nowadays it is becoming just s easy to but an LS1 or LS2 in as you can stick the auto in as well and if you have to buy all new conversion bits like radiator etc it makes sense.

  6. #6
    Learner Driver
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    im in the middle of doing my ls1 swap. got distracted by rust repairs. started off with a few small spots and it now on a rotisserie. plenty on info around and bits easy to get if you spend the cash. some stuff you can do your self. im going ls1 to my turbo 400. wanted to keep the auto strong and simple. most ppl seam to going manual but you have to cut the tunnel out as well for that.

  7. #7
    Sandman Guru
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    ^^It is silly to use the manual boxes when the autos like the 6L80E are so good and strong. I like your TH400 idea, will be interesting to see how the LS1 handles the TH400.

  8. #8
    Learner Driver
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    im not using it as a daily any more so i dont need the overdrive in it. just have to get a manual tune on the ecu so the ls1 thinks its a manual. a lot stronger than the standard 4L60E hats around

  9. #9
    Sandman Guru
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    I was more talking about the TH400 dinosaur pushing the LS1 round a bit, like they do to 308's in HJ-HZ. The TH400 is really a big block or truck box. What torque converter did you end up using? Something with a bit of stall so the LS1 can get up and moving?
    I agree of not using the 4L60 or 4L60E boxes, but the later 4L65E from tonner and crewman is pretty good. This is why I'd use the 4L80E or 6L80E. The 4L80E is a 4spd version of the 3L80 which is simply a TH400 (this is what a TH400 was called once GM powertrain was formed, TH700 became 4L60, TH400 became 3L80 etc).

  10. #10
    Learner Driver
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    should go okay, running a 2700 stall with 3.55 9" behind it so plenty to help the revs up high to get it moving. the ls1 is replacing my old 350 chev.

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