Kingswood Sandman ute

[Dick61]

Bodies differ between assembly plants. They not only vary betwwen series, but differ within series, '74 HJ is different to '75, but on this one it wouldn't matter as it would probably not be anywhere near an original resto.

That would make an interesting thread, Byron. Photos of differences within model runs and captions?

[HK1837]

Hard work, and I don't have photos of most of it, just know the differences! Plus I don't really want to go spelling it out as "how to rebody a car and get away with it" either. When it comes to building up a modified road car, I don't think anyone really cares, but I don't think many of us wish to see rebodied, high spec, top dollar restored as 100% original Sandmans that are really reshells. I think it is enough to warn people if they are going to attempt it they won't get away with it unless they use a body from the same body plant, same luxury level from the same timeframe, which as we all know wouldn't be that easy (particularly with vans), so hopefully will turn the dodgy bros out to make a quick buck away. If it doesn't then a "how-to identify a reshell" might be useful for a future buyer, but I think the bad would outweigh the good. Having said all that, i'd pesonally have no issue restoring say a HJ Sandman van that was rusted beyond repair, using a donor Sandman shell from the right body plant, but i'd tell any future buyer what was done. Thee is nothing about that rebuild that makes it any less a Sandman than it was when it was new.

[Innuendo]

Building a Ute with LS1 gear I get, no problem. But why waste your time adding the Sandman chassis and tags? It won't be worth more as it is going to be modified anyway and the tag history is known. Might as well just grab a good clean Ute and do your conversion. That XX7 on the plate isn't adding a thing unless it's original.

[HK1837]

Pretty much true! Good "wank" factor for car shows I guess, and to also get yourself a pre-canister car being a 1974 build. Plus the other time it'd be useful would be if you bought a crashed ute with a bent and/or cracked chassis.

[Innuendo]

Yeah "wank factor" is there and that's not necessarily a bad thing. If you want to run Sandman stripes and say I have a Sandman.
You also need to factor in that people will no doubt say you have ruined a Sandman by fitting the LS1 etc.
In the end it's your decision, you'll get negative comments either way I guess.

[Robbo]

LS1 is the way to go, who care's what other's think.

[Alien DNA]

Nothing wrong with an LS7 either

[HK1837]

EFI 304/350 or LS1 conversions are all good! Better than major body mods!

[Frosty]

EFI 304/350 or LS1 conversions are all good! Better than major body mods!

I live in darwin so im actually interested in this. As HK said donor body it will still be a sandman. Ive contacted the guy to have a look when i get back, hopefully chassis matches plates.

Watch out for crocks when you get there, that thing looks like it lives near a swamp. My vote is for a LS7

[jaft]

For that sort of car it'd make no difference. But note that HX body is fairly different (mainly firewall wise) to HJ, early HZ are much like HX, later HZ are different to early HZ and WB are even more different to the point that for example HQ-HZ buckets won't fit a WB.

As a real world example, when GMH Pagewood body plant built the last 600 coupe bodies late in 1975 (as bodies in white), they used a few up in late HJ. But the last 580 bodies were still around into HX, so to build them as HX's they had to remove the HJ firewall and replace them with HX examples. Point is if you wanted to use say a donor HX body to build a HJ, some of the original bits won't fit eg clutch mechanism. But for an LS1 conversion who gives a toss!

Byron with them changing the firewall from HJ to HX to suit the improvements... This would have been a big task to do so.. how would u tell if it was done to your car.. eg signs of welding or cutting out the firewall??

Cheers Jaft