HELP! Starting Problems with Blue 253

**Vombil** · 02-08-2013, 07:12 PM

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Today I hooked positive from coil to battery to bypass ignition switch - nothing
Swapped coils - nothing

AND.... found out that there is no spark............................WTF???!!! Does this mean distributor is knackered or earthing/wiring problem?

anyone please! its killing me

**thatotherguy** · 02-08-2013, 07:45 PM

if you have had a wire from the battery to the coil and it still wont start then it cant be a wiring problem so it sounds like distributor but if you have replaced an electronic distributor with a points one then the plug gap may be too big

**Calum** · 02-08-2013, 07:49 PM

A few years back I bought a new set of leads for the old ute and had a simmilar problem,turned out the lead from coil to dizzy was buggered!! put the old one back on and away i went.SO maybe check your leads,just cause they look good doesn't mean they are.Don't give up...

**Vombil** · 02-08-2013, 08:32 PM

Originally Posted by Calbert

A few years back I bought a new set of leads for the old ute and had a simmilar problem,turned out the lead from coil to dizzy was buggered!! put the old one back on and away i went.SO maybe check your leads,just cause they look good doesn't mean they are.Don't give up...

yeah i have a new set of leads for it. Ill bang them on tomorrow but i'm not sure that when they fail that they do so intermittently. it will start sometimes but more often than not it doesn't. Ill check the lead from the dist to coil but ive seen some that are absolutely caked in corrosion and still work fine.

The inside of the distributor looks like its covered in surface rust

I haven't changed distributor yet but this may be the culprit or distributor module??

**Taily** · 02-08-2013, 09:39 PM

Sounds to me like the top bearing in the dizzy is shagged and the inductive pick-up wheel is touching. Is there any sideways (radial) movement in the dizzy shaft? More than likely that or the module is kaput. Make sure there is an even covering of heat sink paste (basically thick zinc cream) under the module too.

**Vombil** · 02-08-2013, 10:32 PM

Originally Posted by Taily

Sounds to me like the top bearing in the dizzy is shagged and the inductive pick-up wheel is touching. Is there any sideways (radial) movement in the dizzy shaft? More than likely that or the module is kaput. Make sure there is an even covering of heat sink paste (basically thick zinc cream) under the module too.

thanks mate. Ill check the module tomorrow (take one from other WB)

... if that doesn't work it's going to the crushers

**buck** · 03-08-2013, 03:40 PM

Just another thought, when i got my HZ years ago, someone had wired up an aftermarket tacho and ran the wiring through the grommet for the clutch cable, when you would put your foot on the clutch after a few years the engine wouldnt start, this was because the wire to the coil was earthing out on the fire wall. just a thought, you might have a coil wire earthing out, which will let the engine crank, but no spark.

**playwme** · 03-08-2013, 04:15 PM

Have you tried another coil? I had intermittent issues on a 351 once. The coil was cracked. It would work fine when it was cold but as soon as there was any heat in the engine bay (even just sitting in the sun) then it was no good.

**wbute** · 03-08-2013, 07:43 PM

Key and coil. You need to check them.

**Vombil** · 03-08-2013, 11:27 PM

played with it today. still no spark and now.... NO FUEL! WTF! this POS is flirting with death

im starting to think the immobiliser might be playing a part in this. it cranks whether the immob is disabled or not

so far ive done coil, starter, dist cap, rotor button, leads, bypassed ignition switch, battery, battery earth

i have a distributor module in my hands now which is no good to me as the fuel pump has shat itself. absolutely spewing. talk about a neglected child. at least this Worlds Best now has a good home (my wallet is empty mind you)