Just out of intrest , you obviously have bilt some killer donks , what are the heads worth? Im building a 383 stroker at the moment but there are so many heads on the market theses days im getting confused! Any advise?
Just out of intrest , you obviously have bilt some killer donks , what are the heads worth? Im building a 383 stroker at the moment but there are so many heads on the market theses days im getting confused! Any advise?
Yeh, Your right. There is plenty of good heads on the market these days. And as the dollar has been so good for the past couple of years the prices are cheap as. Although the Aussie dollar is falling a bit now the prices will start going up.Originally Posted by HJRAY
It depends what your building, and how tough you want it to be. There are plenty of good heads for sale S/H. Brodix, AFR, RHS are all pretty good heads. I don't use ProComp heads/parts.
If you get Brodix, some have both stud patterns on the exhaust ports, but most have the stahl bolt pattern to allow 2"+ primary pipes. While this is great on a race engine remeber that you can't buy off the shelf pipes with this flange pattern, and will have to get a set made.
In saying that, we used a set of ported -10 Brodixs on the engine I built for my brother(in the pic) These came off a sprint car in the US, and got them for $1100 with roller rockers as well. Had to get custom pipes made. I gave Fat Pipes in Brisbane all the pipe sizes/lengths I wanted them made to and they did a great job on them. Overall, for the result we got it still ended up pretty cost effective.
I'm using a set of 220cc AFR's on the 400 I'm building for my ute.
Also you need to think about what sort of driving your going to be doing, and what you expect out of your engine. How streetable you want it? fuel economy? all out HP? Send me a PM if you want
Well I want to gohot street with hydraulic roller as long as I can use 98 oc fuel so not to much comp over 11to 1 , so 2 inch primarys to much u think?
Have you got any parts yet? Or are you figuring what to go shopping for?
If you build a 383 with flat top pistons and 64cc heads, you will end up close to 11-1, depending on deck height and head gasket. Works pretty good for street, as you get good flame travel & quelch with a flat top and small chamber.
I forgot to mention Dart heads before. They are also good. If you use any of the heads I listed, 450-500hp isn't hard to acheive. 200cc intake will give a bit better low performance and little less hp up high, as you go bigger heads, you will loose some low down tq & gain some top end HP. Depends on what you want.
Intakes. Edelbrock VicJnr is good all round manifold. Holley Strip Dominator s are also good, slightly larger and moves the tq curve a little higher. If you want more low down tq, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap is dual plane manifold that will probably make more HP to about 5000 than the Vic Jnr.
Carbs. 750 to 850cfm.
Cams. Hydralic roller is good choice for street if it is going to be driven regularly. While solid rollers will make more HP and much more rpm potential, the reliability of the rollers in the lifters isn't the best IMO. Also solid roller needs much more spring pressure than Hyd. Go for something around 240 or so degrees at .050". As much lift as you can get at that kinda duration. 1.6 roller rockers will be better. A hydralic roller is pretty safe to about 6500rpm, more than that is getting chancy. Make sure the valve springs are right for the chosen cam, maybe an extra 20lb on the seat for safety. You don't want hyd lifter to valve float as they pump up, more importantly, you don't want to float a roller lifter off the lobe. Looking for disaster!
Exhaust. 1 3/4" extractors will work fine. Off the shelf. At least 2 1/2 dual system, with crossover pipe. Distance of crossover from collector makes a difference, although sometimes it's hard to get them in the best location.
Good combination 383 makes a nice all round street engine.
Last edited by HQSandmanute; 12-09-2013 at 07:18 PM.
I have lots of experiancein drag racing and used to build motors for a living but have been out of it for 15 years so a bit out of touch sort of speek, but I have all the inturnals scatt crank rods etc also some nice factory fuelies wich I was intending to use as they are good for 500 hp which is all im after but the time I set them up I could buy some good alloys cheaper I recon, im looking for a good recipes as I said im a bit out of touch now adays!
Fuellies are fine for what your saying you want. I have an old ported set that will support over 500hp. Unfortunately, they have cracked between front & 2nd exhaust port, on the outside of the haed. But they're on my skiboat now and only drip during normal running up to about 3000rpm. So unless the dam runs out of water, it's not a real problem.
If the fuellies you have are 57cc, the cr with a flat top is going to be about 12-1. I would cc the chambers to check what you have. With a dished piston 57cc would be streetable on pump fuel. A 64cc fuellie with flat top will be aprox 11-1
I saw these on Ebay last night. AFD do a lot of Ford heads, and seem to have a good reputation for good heads. As the ad says, they're a new line and not yet released. Could be worth a look.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AFD-SBC-3...item257c9d0ace
Fuellies are a bit outdated now Ray..
One type isn't if you want iron heads, the slant plug 292 cast heads. Probably worth more to collectors than new Darts though and Darts were copied/based off their design.
Ye but I was going the whole old skool thing but im over that now and the fuelies are a rare set 57cc I think but I know they arejust out dated now!
Fuelies are still cool Ray, you'll stay ahead of the traffic with them on board!
Vans.... This is the 2nd time round the block, 40 years later! talk about turning back the clock!
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