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Thread: HQ Sandman Ute restro

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  1. #1
    Have you got any parts yet? Or are you figuring what to go shopping for?

    If you build a 383 with flat top pistons and 64cc heads, you will end up close to 11-1, depending on deck height and head gasket. Works pretty good for street, as you get good flame travel & quelch with a flat top and small chamber.
    I forgot to mention Dart heads before. They are also good. If you use any of the heads I listed, 450-500hp isn't hard to acheive. 200cc intake will give a bit better low performance and little less hp up high, as you go bigger heads, you will loose some low down tq & gain some top end HP. Depends on what you want.

    Intakes. Edelbrock VicJnr is good all round manifold. Holley Strip Dominator s are also good, slightly larger and moves the tq curve a little higher. If you want more low down tq, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap is dual plane manifold that will probably make more HP to about 5000 than the Vic Jnr.
    Carbs. 750 to 850cfm.
    Cams. Hydralic roller is good choice for street if it is going to be driven regularly. While solid rollers will make more HP and much more rpm potential, the reliability of the rollers in the lifters isn't the best IMO. Also solid roller needs much more spring pressure than Hyd. Go for something around 240 or so degrees at .050". As much lift as you can get at that kinda duration. 1.6 roller rockers will be better. A hydralic roller is pretty safe to about 6500rpm, more than that is getting chancy. Make sure the valve springs are right for the chosen cam, maybe an extra 20lb on the seat for safety. You don't want hyd lifter to valve float as they pump up, more importantly, you don't want to float a roller lifter off the lobe. Looking for disaster!
    Exhaust. 1 3/4" extractors will work fine. Off the shelf. At least 2 1/2 dual system, with crossover pipe. Distance of crossover from collector makes a difference, although sometimes it's hard to get them in the best location.

    Good combination 383 makes a nice all round street engine.
    Last edited by HQSandmanute; 12-09-2013 at 07:18 PM.

  2. #2
    Cruiser
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    I have lots of experiancein drag racing and used to build motors for a living but have been out of it for 15 years so a bit out of touch sort of speek, but I have all the inturnals scatt crank rods etc also some nice factory fuelies wich I was intending to use as they are good for 500 hp which is all im after but the time I set them up I could buy some good alloys cheaper I recon, im looking for a good recipes as I said im a bit out of touch now adays!

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by HJRAY View Post
    I have lots of experiancein drag racing and used to build motors for a living but have been out of it for 15 years so a bit out of touch sort of speek, but I have all the inturnals scatt crank rods etc also some nice factory fuelies wich I was intending to use as they are good for 500 hp which is all im after but the time I set them up I could buy some good alloys cheaper I recon, im looking for a good recipes as I said im a bit out of touch now adays!
    Fuellies are fine for what your saying you want. I have an old ported set that will support over 500hp. Unfortunately, they have cracked between front & 2nd exhaust port, on the outside of the haed. But they're on my skiboat now and only drip during normal running up to about 3000rpm. So unless the dam runs out of water, it's not a real problem.

    If the fuellies you have are 57cc, the cr with a flat top is going to be about 12-1. I would cc the chambers to check what you have. With a dished piston 57cc would be streetable on pump fuel. A 64cc fuellie with flat top will be aprox 11-1

    I saw these on Ebay last night. AFD do a lot of Ford heads, and seem to have a good reputation for good heads. As the ad says, they're a new line and not yet released. Could be worth a look.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AFD-SBC-3...item257c9d0ace

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