Project Jasmine yellow commenced

[sandman 78]

my van was acrylic and decided against painting it acrylic the reason being it aint as good as it was years ago paint will not last so l went 2pack if looks like orange peel hit it with 2000 then rebuff looks great everyone to there own

[hqhzvans]

Its personal choice for sure, I had my HZ sprayed in 2-pak even though I was keen for acrylic they blocked it back and made it look flatter by that is hard to do around the gutters panel impressions etc as you risk going through the paint. My currently restoration is a HQ Sandman and I am 95% sure it is going to be done in acrylic I am considering doing around the doors under the bonnet in 2-pak but that would be as far as I will probably go with the 2-pak. I think when you are trying to do a restoration as close as possible to factory it has to be painted as per factory. My painter has also told me about the blending in of the clear with the colour and then clear over the top my car is a solid colour, if my memory serves me correct I think one of the reasons he told me was the clear helps protect from fading and makes it easier to colour match down the track if repairs are required.

[ABSINTH74HQ]

The problem with the whole acrylic restoration theory these days, is that the paint technology has changed so much, the acrylic that's available today is different (that's not to say it's not as good) to that used back in the 70s, so it will still give a very different finish to the baked acrylics used back then, clear coat over solid colours, stickers, painted graphics etc, is common practice and does have it's place many smash repairers use COB (clear over base) systems for the ease of blending the repair to the original colour, regardless of the colour or system used originally on the car.

sandman 78, there's plenty more to it than just hitting it with 2000, its a tedious process, starting with 600 or 800 depending how well it was sprayed, then working up to 2000, or I prefer to go to 2500, guide coated between each step at around 500 increments, then buff with fine lambswool, then swirl remover with a foam pad, then let it cure a month, the swirl remover again and a high quality carnauba (oh crap I don't know how to spell it!) wax! I guarantee it'll be like glass!

It may be over the top, but it works for me, and I reckon you'd fool the 2K nay sayers, plus it really is so much lower maintenance than acrylic.

That said acrylic, if applied in the right conditions (read, 20-28 degrees, and low humidity), with care can be made to look awesome by anyone with moderate skill, and good attention to detail.

Both have their good points, and both can and will look excellent if done right. Prep is sooooo much more important to a paint job than the actual paint.

These days always use 2 pack primers, hi-fill etc regardless of the paint you plan to use, it eliminates the old shrink back and humidity problems of acrylic systems, which always was the biggest reason to stay away from acrylic.

AND YES ACRYLIC WILL STICK JUST FINE TO 2 PACK!!!............. DO NOT LET ANY "EXPERT" TELL YOU ANY DIFFERENT.

Cheers Scotty

[andyG]

Hi Guys, not a lot of photos yet, i'm working on the chassis, damage to the top left wishbone area getting sorted tomorrow, the cab is in a mates shed, as i dont have room, but we are winning.

[Absinth]

Acrylic will stick to just about anything as long as it's been sanded properly and prepsol'd... Any contaminate left on the paint and you get a lovely array of fish eyes.

[andyG]

Almost doneIMG_1965.JPG

[Valencia]

Very very nice another one saved
Love the colour combo

[Blocker]

It's a big leap from chassis prep to almost done. Do you have any other photos you can share with us it looks great.

[andyG]

I have hundreds, but am having trouble uploading them, i went looking for a "how to' on the forum yesterday but couldnt find it, any assistance would be great

[Robbo]

Very nice, that's how I remember them on the showroom floor. Well done.