The problem with the whole acrylic restoration theory these days, is that the paint technology has changed so much, the acrylic that's available today is different (that's not to say it's not as good) to that used back in the 70s, so it will still give a very different finish to the baked acrylics used back then, clear coat over solid colours, stickers, painted graphics etc, is common practice and does have it's place many smash repairers use COB (clear over base) systems for the ease of blending the repair to the original colour, regardless of the colour or system used originally on the car.

sandman 78, there's plenty more to it than just hitting it with 2000, its a tedious process, starting with 600 or 800 depending how well it was sprayed, then working up to 2000, or I prefer to go to 2500, guide coated between each step at around 500 increments, then buff with fine lambswool, then swirl remover with a foam pad, then let it cure a month, the swirl remover again and a high quality carnauba (oh crap I don't know how to spell it!) wax! I guarantee it'll be like glass!

It may be over the top, but it works for me, and I reckon you'd fool the 2K nay sayers, plus it really is so much lower maintenance than acrylic.

That said acrylic, if applied in the right conditions (read, 20-28 degrees, and low humidity), with care can be made to look awesome by anyone with moderate skill, and good attention to detail.

Both have their good points, and both can and will look excellent if done right. Prep is sooooo much more important to a paint job than the actual paint.

These days always use 2 pack primers, hi-fill etc regardless of the paint you plan to use, it eliminates the old shrink back and humidity problems of acrylic systems, which always was the biggest reason to stay away from acrylic.

AND YES ACRYLIC WILL STICK JUST FINE TO 2 PACK!!!............. DO NOT LET ANY "EXPERT" TELL YOU ANY DIFFERENT.

Cheers Scotty