Will E10 or equivilent Fuel hurt my stock 253?

[SLR_dave]

Originally posted by HK1837 It isn't Methanol in E10 or E85, it is Metho, almost 100% Ethanol, Called de-natured Ethanol and it used to be a small amount of Methanol in it but not so much today, but it is still hydroscopic.

Originally Posted by wbute Yeah you should always leave a fuel tank full or completely empty. However I think the point is ethanol is more hygroscopic than regular fuel and when it seperates it is bad for your engine.
I think by the time you change all the rubber components in your fuel system the old adage "going broke saving money" comes into play.

Originally posted by HK 1837 Most rubbers you could buy since 1987 are Ethanol fuel compatible. The only ones i'd be worried about unless you have all the old stuff sill in the fuel delivery are the fuel pump and the rubber bits in old carbs. Put a kit through the carb and a new kit through the fuel pump and should be fine, but only if driving lots. You don't want Ethanol fuel sitting around for long periods in your tank

I reckon this is working really neatly into a nearly finished answer, however, considering the above comments, and the thread, I reckon it would be useful to work out the entirety of all components that will need to be changed for reliable operation on E-10, as I mentioned earlier in this thread, Shell informs that there is a mandate for 6% methanol/ or "denatured ethanol" as Byron explains it (above), in Victoria currently, and apparantly will be in NSW shortly anyway. So it's probably a good idea to expect the need to change over to methanol/ethanol capable components at some stage, but I dont reckon its gonna be all that costly.

So I invite corrections of any ommissions I make in the assessment below.

For H series vehicles, I think its firstly the fuel line connectors at the tank including those to the separator (I keep mentioning the separator becuase thats where my HJ wagon sprung a leak on the highway a short few years after using ULP). So thats three fairly short fuel hoses, and the flexible join on the main line to the engine at the tank. (Bit of a pain in the arse to change though.)
Then (on HJ wagon at least and probably sedans) there is a further fuel line join just under the trailing edge of the driver side door. I cant remember if this is the same on vans, and I dont know about the ute, but I dont think that join is there on my HX van, from memory. Then, there is any after factory join that has been made between the fuel pump and the carby, or before the fuel pump in the engine bay (common to have one to add a fuel filter/make carby removal easier), then all fuel pump and carby compnents (as Byron points out, many of these are probably already done). Then also the hose on the engine intake side from the carbon canister, may as well do the one from the tank at the same time. I dont imagine the vac advance lines and connection to the carbon canister would be an issue but I dont know.

All up, thats about 30 - 40 bucks of hose 50 tops if one miscalculates and needs to purchase extra (the orignal clamps should still work and in my opinion, they are better than screw down Tridon style ones, as they dont have any sharp over hanging tails hanging about to rub on other connectors (as long as the old clamp still works and fits the new hose properly). Plus the cost of the carby kit and fuel pump (or fuel pump kit), but most operating vehicles probably already have a post 87 carby rebuild, fuel pumps comming in at anywhere from 70 to 150 bucks these days (the diaphragm on the glass bowl pump is not easy to change, tried it only once in me early 20's mucked it up, never tried since as it was just as cheap to buy a second hand pump). Call it maybe 250-300 bucks all up with new fuel pump, and alot of messing about. But, I wonder, (as I asked earlier in the thread), what have I left out?.... Im asking genuinely, I dont know this science, it's all new to me, it was a good question, I'd like to know the answer too and am happy to be totally contradicted, I cant think of anything else that might need to be changed, perhaps others can.

I'm not suggesting for a moment that changing all the fuel components is something everybody should do, not at all, but I am thinking that if ULP in Victoria at least is 6% methanol/ethanol currently, (perhaps something we could call E-6, lol) and NSW to follow suit, I think over time, upgrades will happen. Could be useful for members to know what needs to be done to the whole system, no point putting a carby kit through if the grot blocking the jet is comming from a perishing section of rubber the owner didnt even know existed somewhere south of the engine bay, etc.