Quote Originally Posted by SLR_dave View Post
No probs, how did you go? I realise its the other side of the weekend now so hopefully you got the job done! If you still have probs with that bulb holder yeah, I dunno why they do that, sometimes it is just the case of having the wrong bulb, (maybe check what you have against the one on the other side - etc). I do vaguely recall a time I couldnt, and then realised i had got the bulbs mixed up.... From memory one has a bayonet fitting that is higher on one side.... it has to be oriented the right way, but this might just be Torana, or hmmn, genuinely cant remember. (Also, clasping the bulb with a cloth rag overlapped a few times is a good idea if applying pressure, might stop cuts to your hand if it breaks) - but perhaps examine that bayonet - it might just need a 180 rotation. Other times the holder can have dirt in them. I have usually got them to work by cleaning out with WD a few times, and air blowing with a compressor, eventually got the bulb in. I wouldnt scratch around in it too much with anything physically hard though, maybe try re-orienting the bulb.

In terms of strings, I hope it went ok. If you didnt get it done, its always a better idea to use long lengths I find, (always an extra two or even four metres more than you initially think you need) and most importantly make sure not to forget to anchor the loose end. The string will often behave of its own accord, just having a loose metre or so un-anchored which looks like plenty is an easy mistake, it's amazing sometimes how fast the loose end of one string can find its way into a difficult to access channel whilst you are drawing another string or cable through. The other thing is a really solid connection from the string to the loom, looped and tied, solidly, test how hard you can pull on it before beginning the draw through - and then taped, (the tape is just to tuck everything in to reduce friction and snagging, not for the join). I would generally use something like nylon woven clothesline for a job like this. So, that means taking the grommet for the number plate wire out of the beaver panel.

Anyway, hope it went ok! I nearly posted these string tips with my last post but it was getting a bit lengthy! Hopefully you had no probs.
Dave.
Dave
I was sussessful with the string BUT thought I would update on a few tips;
1. I took off the connectors by making a long thin tongue out of spouting metal and it will release tab so you can pull wires out without killing the end. Then I put a tiny wire wheel on a Dremel and took Rust and oxidation off and reassemble.
2. I had to take off the beaver for rust in the end so I used gorilla tape to stick the loom to inner panel. I mucked this up once by marking the half way point on the loom and matching to half way across panel. Turns out its not same each side due to fall of connector on main harness. My suggestion is small cable tie ends to light mounting hole each side then tape. Of course you don't have to tape it as it might make future removal a bugger but I didn't want it sitting on bottom when I welded beaver back on.
3. Obviously test it all before closing up, including any trailer wiring. Not hard if you have removed the terminals from the connectors to accidentally put them in back to front. Make a dot or mark on connector before you remove the inners so they go back the same.
Finish with a question,
Has anyone used the chrome paint inside the tail light assembly to get brighter reflection? I'm thinking it might be better than simple silver???