electrical help - fan, horn, blinkers, temp

[Vombil]

update: I've made a nice thick -VE battery cable and earth to rad support. I've also used contact cleaner on all major elec connections. NO CHANGES!!!

However i've since noticed with ignition on (car not running) that I have no earth at the coil. I tested my HQ and had 5V and my other ute with elec ignition, that had 9V. This seems strange as the car starts and runs like a dream.

Also there does not appear to be a good earth going to the starter motor (ign on, not running). The starter itself seems earthed. This may be related to the coil or maybe it doesn't earth until its cranking??? i know nothing about this shit!

I will test the old mans WB to see if it's any different.

Then i'll change coils.

Then i'll try another neutral safety switch.

Then.... that's it. It'll be time to ring in the pro's!

[agr071]

update: I've made a nice thick -VE battery cable and earth to rad support. I've also used contact cleaner on all major elec connections. NO CHANGES!!!

However i've since noticed with ignition on (car not running) that I have no earth at the coil. I tested my HQ and had 5V and my other ute with elec ignition, that had 9V. This seems strange as the car starts and runs like a dream.

Also there does not appear to be a good earth going to the starter motor (ign on, not running). The starter itself seems earthed. This may be related to the coil or maybe it doesn't earth until its cranking??? i know nothing about this shit!

I will test the old mans WB to see if it's any different.

Then i'll change coils.

Then i'll try another neutral safety switch.

Then.... that's it. It'll be time to ring in the pro's!

If it still has points in the dizzy, you won't see an earth till the points are closed.
Did you do an earth to the starter or just the rad support? (Rad support doesn't need a real thick one as it's the earth for gauges/lights etc. whereas the starter can draw 300 to 400 Amps hence why this one has to be thick).

- - - Updated - - -

Also, can you just give a refresher of what doesn't work now, without going into detail as to what you've done please.

[Dr Terry]

Go back to basics first.

You need 4 cables to the battery as a minimum.

1. Thick cable from +ve battery terminal directly to the starter.
2. Thinner cable (6mm) from -ve battery terminal to the alternator output
3. Thick cable from -ve battery terminal directly to a bolt somewhere on the engine on head. From memory, the original V8 earth cable used a bolt at the alternator bracket.
4. Thinner cable (6mm) from -ve battery terminal directly to a good body bolt. I think the original went to a radiator mount bolt or the radiator support panel itself.

The 2 thick (heavy) cables only carry starter motor current, the other 2 carry the current for the other stuff (lights, relays, instruments, heater fan etc.).

As agro71 has said, the coil voltages will vary depending on whether it has points (& whether they're open or closed). If it has electronic ignition &/or a ballast resistor the voltages again will be different.

Dr Terry

[Vombil]

Go back to basics first.

You need 4 cables to the battery as a minimum.

1. Thick cable from +ve battery terminal directly to the starter.
2. Thinner cable (6mm) from -ve battery terminal to the alternator output
3. Thick cable from -ve battery terminal directly to a bolt somewhere on the engine on head. From memory, the original V8 earth cable used a bolt at the alternator bracket.
4. Thinner cable (6mm) from -ve battery terminal directly to a good body bolt. I think the original went to a radiator mount bolt or the radiator support panel itself.

The 2 thick (heavy) cables only carry starter motor current, the other 2 carry the current for the other stuff (lights, relays, instruments, heater fan etc.).

As agro71 has said, the coil voltages will vary depending on whether it has points (& whether they're open or closed). If it has electronic ignition &/or a ballast resistor the voltages again will be different.

Dr Terry

for battert ive got 2 on the -ve and 2 on the +Ve

neg thick to alternator block bolt, neg thinner is to rad support

pos is 1x thick to starter and 1x thinner to alt input? There is a earth?? ( a very thin black wire) that comes out of the back of the alt (separate to thicker input) and runs back towards the starter and into the loom near firewall.

so i have 4. but not a -ve from batt to alt output

[Dr Terry]

[QUOTE=Vombil;99550
pos is 1x thick to starter and 1x thinner to alt input? There is a earth?? ( a very thin black wire) that comes out of the back of the alt (separate to thicker input) and runs back towards the starter and into the loom near firewall.

so i have 4. but not a -ve from batt to alt output[/QUOTE]

That's not quite correct.

The smaller red wire goes from the battery +ve to the alternator OUTPUT.

The alternator has its own earth thru its own metal case.

The very thin black wire that you mention is actually a brown wire & it is not an earth, it is the alternator light wire. It runs back into the harness to the "battery" light light in the instrument cluster.

Dr Terry