electrical help - fan, horn, blinkers, temp

[agr071]

Washers - I WILL BUY NEW PUMP & TRY

Horn - HORN DID WORK - THEN JUST STOPPED WHEN I WAS TRYING TO GET REVERSE LIGHTS AND OTHER THINGS WORKING.

Heater Fan = - FAN ITSELF WORKS - THERE IS NO POWER TO SWITCH. WHERE IS THE RESISTOR LOCATED ON WB? NOTHING I CAN SEE ANYWHERE.

Temp Gauge - MAY have gauge issue. If you put the wire to earth, what does the gauge do.

Oil Sender - YES, IDIOT LIGHT

HANDBRAKE DUMMY LIGHT DOES NOT WORK AT ALL>

I noticed that with brake pedal depressed and engine running there was only 10-11 V going to brake lights at rear of a-pillar harness connecting point. All fuses are getting 12.5-14V with engine running (exceptions are the two on the bottom left of the fuse board).

Using your multimeter, put the probes into the washer pump wires. Press the washer button and it should show 12v. If it does you have a pump issue.

Using your multimeter, put the red probe into the horn wire and black on earth. Press horn and it should show 12v. If it does you have a horn or earth issue.

There is usually a fuse marked HEATER. Check the ACTUAL contacts infuse box (not just fuse) because if fuse is dirty, it'll show power on the fuse but NOT on the contact in the fuse box.

For the oil and Handbrake lights, they will have a power going to the globe and the wire has to be earthed to make them work. If you use your multimeter , the wire on sender and handbrake button will have 12v. If not check at the globes.

How did you end up with the blinkers and reverse lights?
(Would be heaps easier if I lived closer because this could be sorted in possibly an hour or 2)

[Vombil]

well, still going

Today I swapped alternators. no change

I have found that i am losing 0.5-0.7 volts from a-pillar connection in loom to tail light connections and further 0.5 odd volts from back of loom to tail lights themselves. I disassembled tail lights and cleaned all earthing points. no change.

I am getting 12V to indicators at front but as soon as i plug into bulb it drops to 9-10V. When I rev motor the charge increases from 12V to 13V and the indicators tick FASTER!

I earthed temp wire and the gauge read HOT

Still no fan, horn, rev lights, temp etc, handbrake warning etc.

I put an additional earth from gauges loom to dash. no change.

THIS MAY BE WORTH NOTING> WITH ENGINE RUNNING I CANNOT GET A STABLE VOLT READ FROM COIL USING THE COIL EARTH. ONCE I USE BATTERY AS EARTH IT STABILISES AT 12V. not sure if this means anything but i'm pretty over it.


CAN A STUFFED COIL CAUSE MY PROBLEMS?

TOMORROW I'LL DO STARTER

[Valencia]

Kill it with fire Vomby

- - - Updated - - -

Seriously though you must have a gremlin some where there

[Vombil]

i checked my other ute with elec ignition and it had voltage flare at coil when running. totally stumped....

i can't see it being separate individual issues Agro. There are so many things that aren't working.

how bout i list the things that ARE working

- the car starts and runs
- alt dash light works
- wiper motor works
- fuel gauge and speedo work
- headlights
- tail lights
- brake lights
- indicators - kinda dicky

nothing else works!!!!!!!!! WB = What a Bucket

[Vombil]

a mysandman member has given me another lead to chase tomorrow Gene. looks promising! but yes, fire is 1 solution!!! appreciate the offer mate

[Big Rob]

Change your flasher can for the indicators and see if that clears up something too.

[Vombil]

Change your flasher can for the indicators and see if that clears up something too.

already done mate, no change

[wbute]

Going back to the start, you put a complete tri-matic column and harness in. This will more than likely be where the problem is.
The temp gauge is working so there must be a sender issue.

[Beachy]

It would probably be a supply of power to the problem areas normally earth does not give problems on the multi meter you can test circuits when you join the two probes together they will make a noise you can test the earths that way wire to body and your circuits from the fuse box to the problem area you will have to make extension wires to reach the test points it is only a matter of following the power from the battery to its end source eg th fan

[Vombil]

well it would appear that the multitude of issues are somewhat unrelated.

now working

horn - new horn (crazy because it was working)
oil switch - new switch
handbrake warning - entire dummy cluster was corroded and stuffed

Still not working

- reverse lights
- heater fan

havent rechecked wiper washer yet but i think the motor is stuffed. im a little paranoid that this electrical issue is blowing things up. i've lost a horn and reverse lights were working and now not

i'm confident the temp issue is with sender itself.

im not getting enough power to the two bottom left fuses on panel 9-11V. Panoz told me there was some bridge between entire board and those two that breaks but I'm not sure how to fix this or if this is the problem.