304 efi t700

[damienengland]

Thanks Dr Terry, great advice and happy to hear about the TH350 cross member, looks like i can scratch a line off my running spreadsheet. I grabbed a pic of the 4L60E transmission serial number tonight (took a fair bit of brake cleaner to cut through the muck) and it seems to be a 4 at the front of the number. Would love to hear more about the Mem-cal options. Cheers

20160817_221852.jpg

[Dr Terry]

Thanks Dr Terry, great advice and happy to hear about the TH350 cross member, looks like i can scratch a line off my running spreadsheet. I grabbed a pic of the 4L60E transmission serial number tonight (took a fair bit of brake cleaner to cut through the muck) and it seems to be a 4 at the front of the number. Would love to hear more about the Mem-cal options. Cheers

20160817_221852.jpg

OK, the 4HBD trans is the very first type of 4L60E, it has one less solenoid than the later units.

If you use the VS mem-cal it will throw continuous fault codes because it does not match the trans.

I can re-program your mem-cal to suit the 4HBD trans. & remove the VATS (immobiliser security) at the same time.

Dr Terry

- - - Updated - - -

Good to know. I was having trouble visualising a late model engine bay and where the canister might be.

Wouldn't it make more sense to have the canister at the back, somewhere near the fuel tank? I assume the tank is where most of the vapours come from?

Personally, I like to be able to access my battery easily. Probably mostly cause I'm always pulling the buggers out to charge or swapping them over to another car.

The later Commodores do have their canisters under the rear of the car, instead of the engine bay.

The reason for this, is in a carby car the bowl of the carby needs to be vented to the canister also. In an EFI car, it is only the fuel tank that is vented thru the canister, so it can be mounted anywhere in the car between the tank & the engine.

Dr Terry

[damienengland]

Thanks Dr Terry, I would have walked straight into that one. Also great news about the charcoal canister, i will definitely look to move it under the tray during the conversion. Glad playwme asked about it. I will throw a PM at you about the Mem-cal, but have you got any other gems of info for doing a 304 EFI upgrade on a HQ - WB? From my growing knowledge, it seems like a great idea for a car that has to do daily driving.

[Dr Terry]

you got any other gems of info for doing a 304 EFI upgrade on a HQ - WB? From my growing knowledge, it seems like a great idea for a car that has to do daily driving.

Yes, the 5-litre EFI Holden V8 is the perfect choice for the HQ-WB Holden.

The only other advice I would pass on is for the fuel system. Again, copy the factory set-up, they work well.

Instead of mucking around with pick-up pumps, external pumps & surge tanks etc., just fit a factory VT fuel pump MRA assembly. MRA is the acronym for 'Modular Reservoir Assembly'. Basically it is the pump, strainer, surge tank & fuel gauge sender all in one. They are quiet, simple, cheap & reliable, they tick all the boxes.

If you are using the existing Holden ute/van/tonner fuel tank, cut & hole in the top & weld in an adaptor ring. These you can purchase aftermarket & it allows the VT pump unit to drop straight in. They even have the extra fitting for you return line to attach to.

Dr Terry

[hainzy]

Yes, the 5-litre EFI Holden V8 is the perfect choice for the HQ-WB Holden.

The only other advice I would pass on is for the fuel system. Again, copy the factory set-up, they work well.

Instead of mucking around with pick-up pumps, external pumps & surge tanks etc., just fit a factory VT fuel pump MRA assembly. MRA is the acronym for 'Modular Reservoir Assembly'. Basically it is the pump, strainer, surge tank & fuel gauge sender all in one. They are quiet, simple, cheap & reliable, they tick all the boxes.

If you are using the existing Holden ute/van/tonner fuel tank, cut & hole in the top & weld in an adaptor ring. These you can purchase aftermarket & it allows the VT pump unit to drop straight in. They even have the extra fitting for you return line to attach to.

Dr Terry

Great Idea that one. Ive taken Dr Terrys advice and done just that.

It looks like this...

[damienengland]

Wow Hainzy, looks good. Where did you get the adaptor ring from? Also, is that a large square plate you have welded in as well? Whats the purpose for needing the wider plate?

Cheers

[hainzy]

Wow Hainzy, looks good. Where did you get the adaptor ring from? Also, is that a large square plate you have welded in as well? Whats the purpose for needing the wider plate?

Cheers

Cheers mate.

I got the adapter plate with all the connections from these guys

https://www.efihardware.com/products...onversion-Kits

I think it was about $120 from memory. I bought the MRA from a wrecker. I dont have the car going yet so I have my fingers crossed that it works...

The large square plate was welded on because there was a ridge across the top of the tank which meant that the ring couldnt be cleanly welded on. See the ridge on the other side of the tank and youll see what I mean. It was easier to cut a section out and weld the ring to that.

Also the direction I have the hoses pointed is the way you need to do it. I originally did it on a bit of an angle (see the photo below), and I found that when the tank was bolted up into place, the hoses and connections got squashed into a support/bracing part under the floor. I had to take the whole tank out and redo it. Considering how many pieces of hose and metal were being juggled to get the tank into place, there was very few LOLs at that time and a large amount of swearing!!

How not to do it...