ground up chassis rebuild - what brakes?

[HK1837]

BEFORE you paint anything, spray some white paint around the shock tower welds and also around the welds at the rear of the front, lower control arm mounts. They ALWAYS crack here. If it is good you are lucky. Once you've fixed the cracks, fit WB strengthening bars (pinch off a WB statesman).

As for brakes, just use HQ-WB standard brakes. All the same thing except for caliper changes. HQ calipers are the lowest maintenance, but just use what you have. Buy new rotors (cheap as), and get new drums if you need them, with quality wheel cylinders. If you have some genuine rear cylinders, get them resleeved with stainless and they'll last forever. Rebuild your booster and fit a new cylinder (or a SS sleeved original) and it'll last forever. Dr Terry at Bebco can make you brand new rubber hoses and also steel lines. He can also get your wheel cylinders and master cylinder re-done and rebuild the calipers for you if you aren't up to it.

[mook]

2 questions HK,
who is Dr. Terry? sounds like some sort of folk law legend..
what would be better PBR or Girlock Breaks? I have both and i don't know what to use.

[wbute]

I can help you with one

Dr Terry is Terry Bebbington who wrote 50 Years of Holden and 60 Years of Holden. Both great reference books on all the Holden series of cars built. He still works in the automotive industry but I cant tell you too much else other than he was at the all Holden Day in Sydney.

I will be interested to see if there is any preference between those brakes as well.

[GTS]

I went ground up and used all original everything. I used the original calipers (with new seals) new rotors, new rear drums and cylinders, new master cylinder, etc etc etc.

If it worked in 1975 its gunna work in 2010. :Rasta:

[HK1837]

HQ PBR are supposedly the most reliable. WBute is spot on. Just look up Bebco and go and see Terry. He actually cares about what he is doing, and can give you good advice on the brakes and do the work for you.