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Thread: Aftermarket A/C

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by maxsandman View Post
    I have information that aftermarket kits (where you cut the glovebox) but then use the (genuine) ducting behind dash works very well on HQ-Z's
    Max,

    EXTREMELY interested on how this set-up you mention about the aftermarket kits using genuine ducts actually works.

    Can you provide any information?

    Thanks

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by wbute View Post
    You can get ones that you don’t need to cut out the glove box. Fan sits in front of the console and uses some of the original vents.
    wbute,
    very interested in what you've found out
    could you please share?


    I've actually found part of the installation instructions on the dealer fitted A/C, but am struggling to make sense of how it actually works - I think I'd need to see one in the flesh as I think it needs different ducts as well?

    I'll post them up, maybe someone can help me in understanding how it fits..
    Last edited by Puzzigully; 16-06-2018 at 11:16 AM.

  2. #12
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    My brothers WB has the set up that I mentioned, it was fairly common in them. It just uses the center two vents, by that’s enough. You have a thermostat control and fan speed switch combined. I am not sure that you may have to lose a bit of the console though. His has a Custom Console in it.
    I doubt they still make them but you never know.

  3. #13
    Here's the instructions I found:
    Dealer install instructions.jpg

    P4 Vent Ducts_zpsk35d4fkg.jpg
    Are these in addition to the std ducting you think?

    P2Evaporator Instalation 1_zpskrr9ohkh.jpg

    P3 Evaporator Instalation. 2_zps14ui4p3q.jpg
    I feel like one part of this should go on the existing HUGE round vent (maybe after modification) but cant for the life of me work out where the other opening is supposed to go??

    P5 Condenser Instalation_zpsz6wevzzk.jpg
    P6 Electrical_zpsvi9tcjgf.jpg
    P7 Reciver dryer amp Slide control_zpsj7frqxj7.jpg
    P8Glove Box amp Gas Charge Instructions_zpszosulakz.jpg
    I've read and reread them, and I'm still not sure of where it goes or what gets removed??

    Pics of where I think It should go?
    IMG_7013.jpg
    IMG_7014.jpg
    IMG_7015.jpg
    Last edited by Puzzigully; 16-06-2018 at 01:16 PM.

  4. #14
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    The AC still draws its air through the plenum using the left hand side vent that replaces the standard one. The right hand side vent is removed and replaced with the round flat blanking plate. You no longer use the cables from the vent controls on the lower dash panel. They are deleted and replaced with one vacuum module opener.
    You should not need to modify anything, unless the unit is out of a WB Statesman, which has an odd cable control.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Do you mean the lower opening? That’s the opening for the feet setting.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Yes the AC ducting is different to the non air ducting (long time since I fitted mine!). I am fairly sure I had to pull the entire dash out and swap the whole lot.

  5. #15
    P Plater HXsman's Avatar
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    I'd really like to see someone's comprehensive setup of a Vintage air install in a H series. I've seen bits and pieces but no install photo's end to end. I agree that these would be better than trying to get one of the older units to work and apparently they are more efficient.

  6. #16
    Think I’m also missing a page or two
    One of the pages has step 3, then the next one is step 5, so I’m missing the last steps of step 3 and all of step 4

    Can anyone help with that page(s)

  7. #17
    Sandman Driver damienengland's Avatar
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    Hey Puzzigully, not sure if this helps, but some time ago I had my WB factory A/C reinstated in the Tonner and one item that turned out pretty good, was replacing the A6 compressor with a Sanden which came in a kit. I was scratching around in the garage this morning and came across the kit instructions. Thought you'd like to check them out.

    20180617_113627.jpg

    20180617_113636.jpg

  8. #18
    Thanks every little bit helps 👍

    Looks like it was just changing over the compressor?

    Hopefully this thread will help others


    Have found a “kick panel” vent which with ducting could be used with an aftermarket condenser on both sides.
    Still looking for a very slim vent that could go between dash and console so you could use a full aftermarket system without cutting into anything..
    Another possibility is a “Y” piece to tap into the existing vents from the aftermarket condenser

    Haven’t given up on dealer fitted A/C just yet
    Still trying to figure out how effective it is and how difficult to source.
    Last edited by Puzzigully; 17-06-2018 at 02:56 PM.

  9. #19
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    I don’t think they are difficult to source, but they are inefficient compared to a modern system. It really comes down to what you are building, something that’s as you could order from Holden, or a car that suits your personal ideas.
    Land cruiser utes have a thin ball freezer vent under the steering column that might work the way you want.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by wbute View Post
    I don’t think they are difficult to source, but they are inefficient compared to a modern system.
    I wonder if the inefficiency is in the compressor of the evaporator...or the whole system?
    That is, would an original system be more efficient if you used a modern compressor?



    Quote Originally Posted by wbute View Post
    It really comes down to what you are building, something that’s as you could order from Holden, or a car that suits your personal ideas.
    Land cruiser utes have a thin ball freezer vent under the steering column that might work the way you want.
    Great way to describe it

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