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Thread: HZ panelvan resto

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  1. #1
    P Plater
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    I'm enjoying the read and the pics, it's bringing back a few memories. Above and below the drip channel is important because they are at eye level and yes you need to be well set up to run the paint along the long/high panels. Just a heads up to take care with the eyebrow line above the wheel arches, they are easy to miss and often get smoothed out. The other thing is to consider painting the inside panel above the dash (inside the window) and the B-Pillar panel below where the headliner finishes before you do outside colour. They are easier to mask than painting them after you do colour.

  2. #2
    Night Rider Innuendo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dawso View Post
    Just a heads up to take care with the eyebrow line above the wheel arches, they are easy to miss and often get smoothed out.
    That is good advice. More-so with the WB as the stamping line had almost vanished as the moulds were so worn by this stage.
    Selling HJ 253 Engine
    Engine Number QR718*** | 19M5 Clock Casting at 6 O'Clock
    19th December 1975 Suit HJ Late Dec 1975 to April 1976

  3. #3
    After the roof I couldn't be stuffed working on the car today, so I just did a few 30's to keep it ticking over. Rear tailgate cover stripped and primed..

    20221216_144121 (2).jpg

    And decided to strip two of the door hinges and replace the bushes and pins as they were wobbling and flopping around more than people in an Aquarobics class.

    Before:

    20211005_193146 (2).jpg

    During

    20211005_195916 (2).jpg

    And after...

    20221216_144038 (2).jpg

    While I was at it I stripped down the rear upper and lower tailgate hinges as well and got them in etch primer

    20211003_144246 (2).jpg

    20211003_144329 (2).jpg

    Finally I went down to Rare Spares and picked up and ordered a fair bit, dropped the rear tailgate mechanisms off to get zinc plated, as well as have ordered a few other bits and pieces from different suppliers so I'm just keeping it ticking along if I need a break for a day or so...
    Last edited by DuncanM; 16-12-2022 at 04:32 PM.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Dawso View Post
    I'm enjoying the read and the pics, it's bringing back a few memories. Above and below the drip channel is important because they are at eye level and yes you need to be well set up to run the paint along the long/high panels. Just a heads up to take care with the eyebrow line above the wheel arches, they are easy to miss and often get smoothed out. The other thing is to consider painting the inside panel above the dash (inside the window) and the B-Pillar panel below where the headliner finishes before you do outside colour. They are easier to mask than painting them after you do colour.
    Thanks mate. Good advice. Yeah I'll strip the rear interior back and prime it once the windows are welded in. So that's the task once I strip the rest of the car and get it all in etch primer. I was planning on painting the rear in the original Vynacote Grey (ive got the code for it from this site ) , although I am intending to deck the rear, but that's a year or more away, or more, so I want it to look half reasonable before that - and it cleans it up and removes rust anyway. So that will be done prior to the colour going on the outside.

    In regards to the eyebrow lines, again, I'm lucky - both the rear quarters and front guards are pretty clean and the original lines are still nice and strong there, so it shouldn't be tough for me to keep them (unlike some other poor sods who have to deal with a bunch of bog from past repairs and dodgy panel beating when they are doing their restos :( )

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