Is it seam sealer under the side window frames

[poyda]

Looking at my hx which needs resto. The side panels seem detached from the framework.
1. Is it normal to be detached? Thought it might cause drumming.
2. There seems to be some old glue of some sort which may answer my first question. What is it?

It has windows if that makes a diff.
Thanks
Poyda.

[eske33]

Just a bonding adhesive as far as i know. Same happens on underside of bonnet as well. I usually use sikaflex to re-adhere those areas

[SLR_dave]

The soda blast operator who I got to strip my first HX pointed out to me that the blasting had stripped out the bonnet putty, he advised using the blue plasterboard adherent (sticks gyprock board to ceiling rafters) as the best replacement compound for the bonnet, he was fairly adamant about it, I could see his logic, that stuff sets hard, but I haven't got round to trying it yet myself. I can imagine that would be easier (maybe cheaper too) than sikaflex. You could do it with a spatula, or an improvised gun, with more working time. I have mused over this a bit, I'd like to know whats best as well.

[Vombil]

is it called drip check? it's not a seam sealer as it sets quite hard. this would be a good update thread to see what people have been using as substitutes

[Dick61]

It is basically seam sealer that is used to stop the drumming, the hard part about the reinforcing in these areas is that putting spot welds in at the factory was not easy and would leave unsightly marks in the outer panels. The large areas of flat panels would have vibrated and broken spot welds so they were held together with a flexible join. If you use the wall glue that dries hard it will eventually crack and break. I can remember one of our vans had the brown wadding type stuff (very technical terminology) that is glued under the dash and plenum used in strips between the reinforcing bars and the outer panel, but for the life of me I can't remember if it was my EH van or my father's HZ, we are talking 25 to 30 years ago here!

[SLR_dave]

My HX's had squares of that wadding (horse hair padding or felt brown stuff) packed between the frame and the side walls when I got them, light surface rust had begun under them. I was considering a clarke rubber replacement for those, (more waterproof) but the bonnet packing is a way different substance in my vans, it could be drip check, but that would be expensive and unnecessary I reckon in a rebuild, dripchek is hard to use too. Maybe later models had a compound in the frame to the sidewall, but in mine it was that wading. Compound seems smarter, but then again, it's not easily removeable once its in place. I'm liking the gyprock glue for the bonnet, it's not a watertight joint but for them sidepanels I dunno was gonna go with foam/rubber.

[Dick61]

I wouldn't use gyprock bonding adhesive as it is not meant to take variations in heat and vibration, I would use sikaflex or go all out and use the 3M panel adhesive that is formulated to glue automotive panels onto cars without welding.

[eske33]

Agree totally Dick. The gyprock stuff goes hard as well, so would end up with the same problem. I have been using the sikaflex for well over 10 years in every vehicle I have done. The standard 11FC is good enough, but if you use the marine grade it's even better and can be painted over with any auto paints and also great bonding strength. It stays flexible as well even under the paint where as pointed out earlier, seam sealer hardens. The only thing the 11FC doesn't like is chlorine, so don't drive your car into a swimming pool. I reckon the soda blast guy might be the same guy that recommends putting eggs in the radiator to stop leaks. The 3M stuff should do the same job, however I haven't used myself

[SLR_dave]

I have generally found Sikaflex and 3M products to be excellent.

I used 3M 8115 Auto Mix for the temporary repair of the mess a bodgey (so called show car panel specialist) contractor did to the roof of my first HX van. The product itself is not is not overly expensive for what it does, but cost doubles for a one off use because you have to buy the 3M caulking gun. (Which may come in handy one day down the track if you need to use another 3M dual mix product I suppose). 8115 Auto mix would certainly do the job on the bonnet, but I was interested in the suggestion of the Gyprock adhesive because of the way it was advised.

I Have to agree though eske33 and Dick 71 it makes much more sense to stay with auto specific products, but I dunno I wondered.

3M Dripcheck seems to be an an older product, I found it hard to use in cold temperatures and eventually went with Sikaflex as the seam sealant for the exterior seams. There are some previous threads on this that may be of interest;

http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...ill-Body-seams

http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...Hinge-compound

But the rear panel to frame is a slightly different issue. I thought it was horsehair/ felt pads originally? But then they absorb water (as does dripcheck) - noted in threads above, with some humor, it is hygroscopic. I would imagine replacing the rear felts with compound is a reasonable modern solution, as I say I am considering rubber and glue for the rear frames myself, this is because one day in the future they will be easily removable and replaceable to check for rust underneath them. I'm still interested still to know if Holden had started using compound for this job by HZ, or if they stayed with fiber pads.

Blurbs on 8115 are available at the links below (for anyone it may assist), it's gooey stuff, sets hard and doesn't fill real easy, its designed to glue panels together, not fill large spaces between panels and the frame, but neither is Dripcheck.

http://3mcollision.com/3m-panel-bond...ive-08115.html
and this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXrGJ_D4CWg

[eske33]

Hygroscopic. Nice. Don't think I've heard that term since trade school.